Green backpackers

For a while we’ve been rolling, collecting no moss and encouraging ourselves through the backdoor of winter. We have halted briefly along the remaining section of the Garden Route at some places that attracted our attention and again fuelled up on the inspiring stories and events that see us through each day. We heard of three backpackers who all were adopting ecological and ‘forward farming’ principles to their environments and encouraging conscious green thinking to their patrons through the nature of their establishments, so naturally we went where the going was forward and the idea’s were green.

Our first stop was Wild Spirit Backpackers in Natures Valley. We arrived in the wet windy night (seems a trend with us) and were greeted by a blazing fireplace and the friendly folks who dwell there. I had phoned earlier to make a reservation and I was convinced over the line by Jared that we should most definitely join them for dinner tonight. “Nut roast” he declared, “the finest you have ever eaten”. He had so much conviction in his voice about that nut roast that it felt as though he had some sort of spiritual affiliation with it. Well Jared turned out to be spot on about the dinner that evening, it was quite simply divine. Jenny the owner, matriarch, head chef and manager of Wild Spirits for the last 32 years had made it herself, and one could taste the love and care baked into it, like most things in the place. It turned out Justin had been there before, about ten years ago with Tristan and some other monkey punks probably round about Plett Rage, its almost a miracle the place is still running after that whirlwind swept through, even more it is thriving and seems to be acquiring an unmissable status in the backpackers choices.Jenny runs Wild spirits also known as Khoinania with her husband and her daughter Ola and a team of ’Earth Angels’ who arrive from time to time and help care for the place and have some nurturing themselves. They have embraced environmental issues like water awareness and recycling in a well thought out eco-centre on site. Here visitors can come and learn about recycling waste and water and perhaps even turn their hand at making some of their own African ornaments out of waste plastic or old car tyres. By each water outlet is a reminder of water shortages and how to conserve water in the area by using their ‘Bongi’ bucket system to save water. The vibe was relaxed but enthusiastic and the forest was meters away from the viewing deck with enticing walks into the forest starting at the backdoor. Well worth a stop over if you in the area, and perhaps an early request can organize you one heavenly nut roast.

Ubuntu means community in IsiXhosa and it may well have been that a loving, laughing band of surf crazy nature folks came to Jeffreys Bay and thought well here’s a fine place to make like a community… Its not exactly a community in the sense of people staying for prolonged periods of time together, well apart from some of the staff that intended to be passing through and ended up becoming part of the ubuntu and the surfing aura that surrounds J’bay as it is better known. And as one looks over the world famous super tubes waves from the balcony and takes in the easy going vibes of a mid week morning its easy to see why they stayed. Not only are they providing a quality service with their comfortable accommodation and lush relaxation Zen gardens but doing it with the environment in mind. By encouraging guests to utilize the different recycling and worm composting bins and observing the need to be water wise with slogans and messages throughout they add a touch of green consciousness to the already water wild crew that pulls through. Ubuntu is stretching out and not only enriching this own circle of influence but are also part of a local community outreach programme. Justin got a surf in which left him happy and I found a little book and coffee nook just by super tubes that did a brilliant fair trade flat black with honey in 100% compostable cups made of plant fibres, Baloo’s continued successful meaty bones manifestations means he too is as the surfers say ‘stoked’.

This may be a good chance to pause and reflect on how two sweet vegans as ourselves could be supporting our little wolves growing carnivorous appetite for bones and flesh. Well that’s what he wants, that just what his growing canine body craves for and perhaps it seems a bit queer giving a little creature what he wants but instinctively he knows exactly what he needs to strengthen his bones, build good body muscle and have a healthy shiny coat. It’s not just because he’s a wolf, this is applicable to all dog owners, more to the point conscious and loving dog owners. A man called Tom Lonsdale wrote a book called “Growing your pup on raw meaty bones” it’s a detailed account of the multitude of reasons why commercial dog foods are creating sickness in dogs and why a return to a diet of raw meaty bones, rice and lentils and some raw vegetables is the way forward for any healthy pooch. Sad to say but majority of folks feeding their best friends on convenient commercial feeds are mis-lead by packaging and sometimes even the vets who recommend it. Alike many doctors who are given little tit bits on the side from pharmaceutical companies to prescribe their drugs, vets are recommending to you certain food brands not for lassies benefit as much as their own back pockets. An honest vet suggested Baloo’s diet to us, he has been feeding his dogs like that for many years and both are in top conditions. A natural raw diet is not only cheaper but also decreases the amount of wasteful packaging and harmful plastics moving through your home. There plenty other reasons why the commercial pet food industry is nasty news but if you really want to find out all the details they are out there.

Ok so in the Eastern Cape now and off to one of my and as it happens ol’ J.R Tolkien’s favourite spots in South Africa. Yip you may have heard of him, Mr Tolkien, he became very popular with a series of books he wrote inspired by the very place we headed for. If you guessed Lord of the Rings you would be right and Hogsback the place. Terra-khaya, after the Greek terra meaning earth and the African khaya meaning home has been established on a wattle invaded mountainside overlooking the three Hogs Backs. It’s a breathtaking view over the hackled horizon, one is so high up that on occasion people have stayed submerged in the clouds for the duration of their stay. Shane a successful former catering company owner from Cape Town, had a very special connection with the place and decided to create this heavenly earth home. Along with a business partner, they have over the last three and a half years cleared massive sections of wattle, built beautiful adobe, wood and recycled material structures that accommodate backpackers and volunteers, and established spaces for vegetable gardens and livestock. Shane prepares some of the most delicious gourmet meals around and runs one to three day horse trails through the magical Amatole mountain range. He is very knowledgeable about natural horsemanship and has formed a special relationship with each of his horses. He is in the process of creating a food forest, which hopefully we will be around to help him with, and is mulching and composting in preparation for spring vegetable growing. He has succeeded in creating a very comfortable and homely atmosphere, while at the same time being conscious of recycling, water, and energy matters. One thing we enjoyed greatly was the open air bath, which uses water from the passing spring and is heated by a wood burning donkey system. On a starry night, it is an experience that can’t be missed. We also had the very good fortune to meet up again with Lily, an amazing girl who was on the permaculture course with us in Stillbaai. She had come to wwoof at Terra-khaya and share some of what she had learnt on the course with the folks here. It keeps happening like that, making synchronized link up’s and creating a network of like minded people. Hogsback itself is a very special space, with some epic hikes to waterfalls and bathing pools. If you looking for a space to come home to and reflect, this is it.

Next up we go visit Justin’s family in Dordrecht, have a good play in deep African snow, and go into some of the finer points of commercial farming.
Look forward to your comments and ideas,

Blessings to ALL
LOVE

Gervaise